Fashion for Good

Priyanka Khanna, Head of Asia Expansion

Khushbu Maheshwari, Innovation Analyst

Reverse Resources

Nin Castle, Co-founder & Chief Programme Officer

Harshitha Venati, Programme Manager

Ranjit Sasi, Business Development Manager, India

We would like to take a moment to recognise the key role of our innovator Reverse Resources in the pre consumer pilot. Apart from their knowledge and expertise in all things textile waste, their hands-on approach and astute interventions were instrumental in the success of the pilot. We would also like to acknowledge the significant contributions made by all our pilot stakeholders – brands, manufacturers, recyclers and waste handlers in making this pilot a success and support in substantiating our learnings with their insights. Our hope is that this pre-consumer pilot and the report act as a blueprint for implementing efficient and digitally traceable textile waste supply chains and amplifying textile waste recycling in Asia.

The authors would also like to thank the following industry experts, who gave their time and contributed their expertise to this pilot: Lakshmi Poti and Karan Kumar (Laudes Foundation), Vincent Delalandre and Tejas Sampat (PVH Corp.), Drishti Masand and Avanish Dwivedi (adidas), Liz Lipton-McCombie, Anuja Ojha, Venkatraman Raman (Levi Strauss & Co.), Carmen Chan and Sirajudeen Ali (TESCO), Nicole Morarescu and Adarsh Immanuel (Primark), Abhishek Bansal and Snehit Kumar Rahul (Arvind Limited), Surya Valluri and Vivek Khare (Birla Cellulose), Rajender Sharma, Animesh Laha (Welspun India) and Anjali Krishnan (IDH). We also wish to thank Earl Singh, Lana Miller, Camilla Rama and Emily Cooper for their work on the design and editing assistance.

DISCLAIMER

This report has been produced by a joint team from Fashion for Good and Reverse Resources. The authors take full responsibility for the contents and conclusions. The participation of the industry experts and affiliates who were consulted and acknowledged here, does not necessarily imply endorsement of the report’s contents or conclusions.

To quote this report, please use the following reference:

Fashion for Good and Reverse Resources Waste, Sorting for Circularity India: Pre Consumer Pilot Learnings, December 2022.

Use of the report’s figures, tables or diagrams, must fully credit the respective copyright owner where indicated. Reproduction must be in original form with no adaptions or derivatives. For use of any images in the report please contact the respective copyright holders directly for permission.

The images used in this report belong to the authors, with the consent of the individuals photographed.

This work is licensed under the Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 4.0 International License:

Ergo, they are subject to the laws of copyright and intellectual property.

Attribution – You may give appropriate credit, provide a link to the licence, indicate if any changes were made.

Non-Commercial – You may not use the material for commercial purposes.

Share A Like – If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same licence as the original.

FUNDERS

This Project has been commissioned by Fashion for Good with catalytic funding by Laudes Foundation and facilitated by brand partners adidas, BESTSELLER, and Zalando, Inditex and H&M Group as an external partner.

AUTHORS

Circle Economy

Hilde van Duijn, Associate Senior Strategist

Natalia Papú Carrone, Senior Strategist

Ola Bakowska, Project Manager

Qianjing Huang, Data Analyst

EigenDraads

Marieke Akerboom, Co-Founder and Project Lead

Fashion for Good

Kathleen Rademan, Director Innovation Platform

Dolly Vellanki, Analyst Innovation Platform

CONTRIBUTORS

Boer Group

I:CO (a part of SOEX Group)

JMP Wilcox (a part of Textile Recycling International)

TEXAID

Modare-Cáritas

Wtorpol

PlanMiljø

TERRA

Refashion

Reverse Resources

The authors would like to thank the following industry experts, reviewers and contributors for support in this report: Abhishek Bansal (Arvind Limited), Albert Alberich (Modare-Cáritas), Alicja Jordan (Zalando), Amaya Guillermo (Inditex), Anders Schorling Overgård (BESTSELLER), Angel Minaya Romero (Inditex), Ann Runnel (Reverse Resources), Anna Pehrsson (TEXAID), Anna-Karin Sundelius (H&M), Ariane Biemond (PVH Corp.), Benjamin Koehler (Otto), Bente Bauer (Policy Hub), Brendan Guerin (TERRA), Carsten Steckert (SOEX Group), Cécile Martin (Refashion), Christina Mjo (Inditex), Christine Quigley (PVH Corp.), Claire Boland (PVH Corp.), David Watson (PlanMiljø), (Drishti Masand (adidas), Eduardo Castro Gradaille (Inditex), Emma Bach Nørbæk (BESTSELLER), Esther Haitink (H&M), Femke Jonkmans (PVH Corp.), Gintarė Petreikytė (Policy Hub), Gudrun Messias (adidas), Hans Bengtsson (H&M), Henrik Sand (BESTSELLER), Iria Mouzo Lestón (Inditex), Jade Buddenberg (Zalando), Jade Rolland (Fashion for Good), Johan Lindstorm (H&M), Jonas Stracke (SOEX Group), Jose Maria Faro (Modare-Cáritas), Karan Kumar (Laudes Foundation), Karla Jabben (Otto), Kathleen Lynch (Levi’s Strauss & Co.), Kelly Gupta (PVH Corp.), Khushbu Maheshwari (Fashion for Good), Lakshmi Poti (Laudes Foundation), Laura Coppen (Zalando), Lisa Franke (Otto), Liz Lipton-McCombie (Levi’s Strauss & Co.), Louise Staall (BESTSELLER), Margherita Guaschino (PVH Corp.), Marten Sondell (H&M), Maud Hardy (Refashion), Maxime Bourland (Reverse Resources), Melanie Hackler (H&M), Nicole Kösegi (Boer Group), Nin Castle (Reverse Resources), Priyanka Khanna (Fashion for Good), Puk de Jong (adidas), Sandra Plagge (TEXAID), Sebastian Skowron (Wtorpol), Snehit Kumar Rahul (Arvind Limited), Sophie Hantsch (Zalando), Steffen Trzepacz (PlanMiljø), Stuart Wilson (JMP Wilcox), Surya Valluri (Birla Cellulose), Thomas Böschen (TEXAID), and Vincent Delalandre (PVH Corp.). We would like to thank the Sorters for their support and contribution during the on-the-ground composition analysis. We would like to thank Refashion for their development of the Refashion textiles materials library, for the provision of their methodological basis and background resources, for time spent, and for the connection to TERRA, which was instrumental in creating the project’s methodology. We would also like to thank the students and professors at Hogeschool Rotterdam, Amsterdam Fashion Institute and Rotterdam International Secondary School for their invaluable support in the on-the-ground analysis.

The authors also wish to thank the following at Fashion for Good for their contributions in editing, design and layout of this report, Camilla Rama, Earl Singh, Emily Cooper and Lana Miller.

Please note that the findings of this report do not reflect the opinion nor position of those parties listed as stakeholders to the project. This report represents an analysis of the data gathered during the project timeline and as such represents a position at one point in time as such describes research findings only.

At the time of the initial public release of the Sorting for Circularity Europe report (September 2022), the report included a chapter on policy recommendations, which has since been removed. The recent release of Policy Hub’s position paper (August 2022) best reflects the perspective of industry players to date and is therefore a guiding document for policy recommendations.

LEAD AUTHORS

Sattva Consulting

Aarti Mohan, Nidhi Bali, Palagati Lekhya Reddy, Mansha Balecha, Manasvita Dubey, Anushka Sureka

Fashion for Good

Priyanka Khanna, Khushbu Maheshwari

CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS

Reverse Resources

Nin Castle, Harshitha Venati, Maxime Bourland, Ranjit Sasi

Saahas Zero Waste

Wilma Rodrigues, Astha Khubele, Priyanka Jariwala

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We would like to extend our thanks to more than 700 stakeholders in the Indian textile waste ecosystem, consisting of manufacturers, brands, recyclers, waste handlers, sorters and other industry stakeholders who have helped us to develop this report. Their patient input has allowed us to dive into and explore the landscape of textile waste in India and substantiate our findings with detailed insights. We would also like to acknowledge the efforts of the data collectors in gathering the information and observations from the field. Our hope is that this report will (re)capture the value of textile waste while driving circularity in the Indian textile industry and further enhance innovation partnerships between different stakeholders in this space.

The authors would also like to thank the following industry experts, who gave their time and contributed their expertise to this report: Lakshmi Poti and Karan Kumar (Laudes Foundation), Vincent Delalandre and Tejas Sampat (PVH Corp.), Drishti Masand and Avanish Dwivedi (adidas), Liz Lipton-McCombie, Anuja Ojha, Venkatraman Raman (Levi Strauss & Co.), Heather Canon and Manisha Pattanayak (Target), Carmen Chan and Sirajudeen Ali (TESCO), Nicole Morarescu and Adarsh Immanuel (Primark), Abhishek Bansal and Snehit Kumar Rahul (Arvind Limited), Surya Valluri and Vivek Khare (Birla Cellulose), Rajender Sharma and Animesh Laha (Welspun India), Valerie Langer (Canopy Planet), Traci Kinden (Revolve Waste), Hilde Van Duijn (Circle Economy), Dr. Siva Rama Kumar Pariti (Sustainable Textile Solution), Stefanie Bauer and Vaibhav Rathi (GIZ, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit), Holly Syrett (Global Fashion Agenda), Anurag Gupta (Usha Yarns), Martin Stenfors (Renewcell), Steven Bethell (Bank & Vogue), Gigi Mathews and Tanushri Shukla (Enviu).

The authors also wish to thank Prachi Chauhan Kanwar for her work on the design and layout of this report, along with Earl Singh, Lana Miller, Brittany Burns and Camilla Rama for their editing assistance.

DISCLAIMER

This report has been produced by a joint team from Fashion for Good, Sattva Consulting, Reverse Resources and Saahas Zero Waste. The authors take full responsibility for the contents and conclusions. The participation of the industry experts and affiliates who were consulted and acknowledged here, does not necessarily imply endorsement of the report’s contents or conclusions. To quote this report, please use the following reference: Fashion for Good, Sattva Consulting, Reverse Resources and Saahas Zero Waste, Wealth in Waste: India’s potential to bring textile waste back into the supply chain, July 2022. Use of the report’s figures, tables or diagrams, must fully credit the respective copyright owner where indicated. Reproduction must be in original form with no adaptions or derivatives. For use of any images in the report please contact the respective copyright holders directly for permission.

The images used in this report belong to the authors, with the consent of the individuals photographed.

This work is licensed under the Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 4.0 International License:

Ergo, they are subject to the laws of copyright and intellectual property.

Attribution – You may give appropriate credit, provide a link to the licence, indicate if any changes were made.

Non-Commercial – You may not use the material for commercial purposes.

Share A Like – If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same licence as the original.

AUTHORS

FASHION FOR GOOD

James Crowley – Innovation Platform Analyst

Kathleen Rademan – Director Innovation Platform

TEXTILE EXCHANGE

Evonne Tan – Data and Technology Director

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The authors would like to thank the following industry experts at Textile Exchange and interviewees at the various tracer companies who contributed their time, expertise, and edits to this report: Amish Gosai (Textile Exchange), Ashley Gill (Textile Exchange), Pe-Jae Brooks (Textile Exchange), Laura Kohler (Textile Exchange).

Isabella Sainty, Ben Tomkins (Oritain), Nathan Dubrich, Grant Erskine (Source Certain International), Peter Swinkels (Picarro), Nelly Dubrulle (DNA Gensee), Ronan Loftus (IdentiGEN), Erik Malmstrom (Safetraces), MeiLin Wan (ADNAS), James Cooper, Chad Bolick (UNIFI), Gediminas Mikutis, Michela Puddu (Haelixa), Julian Ansoult (Olnica), Tobias Herzog (Tailorlux), Gloria Adeboi (Digimarc), Joe Tilley (In Code Technologies), Adam Herbenson, Jose Gasque (Stardust Secured), Alan Jackson (Chromition), Crispin Argento, Paul Stenning (Fibretrace), Perry Everett (Arylla).

The authors also wish to thank the following at Fashion for Good for their contributions to the research, editing, design and layout of this report, Earl Singh, Lana Miller, Camilla Rama, Dolly Vellanki.

CONTACT DETAILS

Tracer companies wanting to be included in the Textile Tracer Assessment, and industry players wanting additional information, please contact:

Fashion for Good

connect@fashionforgood.com

From all at Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange, we thank you for taking the time to read the Textile Tracer Assessment and your interest in traceability and sustainability within the textile industry.