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Fashion for Good Museum shares its legacy and embarks on a new phase

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Sorting for Circularity USA: Project Findings Unveil a $1.5 Billion Opportunity for Sorting Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling in the US

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Sorting For Circularity India Toolkit

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The Great Unlock: Closing the Innovation Commercialisation Gap Through Project Finance Solutions

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Sorting for Circularity India: Pre-Consumer Pilot Learnings

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Sorting For Circularity Europe, Sorters Handbook

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Sorting For Circularity Europe: An Evaluation And Commercial Assessment Of Textile Waste Across Europe

References

  1. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  2. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Available online here.
  3. Ecologic (2021). Extended Producer Responsibility and Eco Modulation of Fees/ Available online here.
  4. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL)(2018). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. ISBN: : 978-91-88695-73-4. Available online here.
  5. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  6. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  7. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  8. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Available online here.
  9. Henry Day (n.d.). WASTE TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS. Available online here.
  10. IMPEL (2017). Refuse-derived fuel. Available online here.
  11. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here. Definition adapted based on BS 8001:2017 – ‘Framework for implementing the principles of the circular economy in organisations – Guide’, based on Section 2.59 Reuse/reused.
  12. Global Fashion Agenda, 2019. 2020 Commitment. Available online here.
  13. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2019. Make Fashion Circular launches the Jeans Redesign. Available online here.
  14. Wrap (2022). Textiles 2030. Available online here.
  15. Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective. Available here.
  16. EUR-LEX (2022). COMMUNICATION FROM THE COMMISSION TO THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, THE COUNCIL, THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL COMMITTEE AND THE COMMITTEE OF THE REGIONS EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. Available here.
  17. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  18. PlanMiljø update using the same method as described in JRC (2021). Figure representing apparent consumption per capita for EU-27.
  19. JRC (2021). Circular economy perspectives in the EU textile sector – Final report. Available here. EU-27 apparent consumption in 2019, excludes the UK.
  20. JRC (2021). EU-27 2020. Excludes the UK.
  21. JRC (2021). EU-27 2020. Excludes the UK.
  22. Modare (2021). Análisis de la ropa usada en España. Available here.
  23. JRC (2021).
  24. JRC (2021). In line with Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective (40-89% European average, 64% North-West Europe average).
  25. Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective. Available here.
  26. EUR-lex (2008). Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives. Available here.
  27. Calculation derived from current per capita collection figures in both Spain and Germany and taking into account expected increase of 220 grams per capita/year, as estimated in JRC (2021) from 2025 onwards. Germany could go from 15.3 kg/capita in 2018 to 17.94 kg/capita in 2030, considering a linear progression of 220 grams per capita/year in a slightly more conservative approach than the German Federal Association for Secondary Raw Materials and Waste Management (bvse e.V.) that proposes 300 grams per capita/year, albeit very much in line with it. Spain could go from 2.3 kg/capita in 2019 to 4.72 kg/capita in 2030, considering a linear progression of 220 grams/year.
  28. Harmsen, PFH. Improving Dutch post-consumer textile recycling. WUR. Available online here.
  29. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. Available online here.
  30. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  31. EcoTLC/Refashion, (2014). Caractérisation des TLC usagés entrant en centres de tri ainsi que des déchets résultant du tri. Available online here.
  32. Circle Economy (2020). Clothing labels: Accurate or not?. Available online here
  33. Further details on scope and categorisation can be found in Annex I – Methodology for sorting analysis.
  34. EcoTLC (2021). Annual Report. Available online here. Includes self-deposit containers in public area, private and private access.
  35. GftZ estimate. In JRC (2021).
  36. WRAP (2020) Textiles Market Situation Report 2019. Available online here.
  37. WRAP (2016). Bring recycle guide. Available online here.
  38. EcoTLC 2019. Annual Report 2018. Available online here.
  39. In JRC (2021). Estimations made by EuRiC for JRC 2020. Netherlands data comes from FFACT (2020), complemented with data from sorters participating in this Project.
  40. Collected volumes in Germany from German Environment Agency (2022). Evaluation of the collection and recovery of selected waste streams for the further development of the circular economy. Available here.
  41. FFACT (2020). Massabalans textiel 2018. Available here. This information was complemented by input from participating sorters in the Project.
  42. Input from participating sorters in the Project.
  43. Calculated based on input from participating sorters in the Project.
  44. Calculated based on input from participating sorters in the Project.
  45. JRC (2021).
  46. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  47. JRC (2021).
  48. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  49. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  50. JRC (2021).
  51. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. Available online here.
  52. Data shared by textile sorters.
  53. This weight is based on average weights per product type. The actual volume scanned is 21.800 kilos, hence there is a 6% difference between actual volume scanned and estimated weight used in data analysis.
  54. JRC (2021). Apparent consumption figures.
  55. Data shared by participating sorters.
  56. Based on the fibre occurrence found in the sample used in this Project.
  57. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  58. Wang, L.; Huang, S.; Wang, Y (2022). Recycling of Waste Cotton Textile Containing Elastane Fibers through Dissolution and Regeneration. Membranes, 12, 355. Available online here.
  59. Textile Exchange (2021). Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report. Available online here.
  60. PCI Wood Mackenzie (2016). In: UN Environment Programme (2020). Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain – Global Stocktaking. Nairobi, Kenya.
  61. Average garment use based on: Sustainability (2020). Clothing lifespans: what should be measured and how. Available here.
  62. Estimate share of polyester in world fibre production in 2017 based on Textile Exchange Preferred Fibers and Materials Report (2018). Available here.
  63. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  64. Items containing sequin and lurex threats were classified as containing “metal disruptors”. These disruptors are not removable. Therefore the share of non-removable textiles is in reality slightly higher than the 49% represented here.
  65. Mechanical recyclers mostly process knitted fabric structures. This study did not capture data on fabric structures. Based on product categories, 14% of the feedstock for mechanical recycling most likely consists of textiles with woven fabric structures.
  66. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  67. The colour pink was omitted in the research and traced as ‘red’.
  68. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  69. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  70. Based on this Project’s sample analysis.
  71. JRC (2021).
  72. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  73. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  74. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  75. EigenDraads (2022). Business case for automated sorting and hardware removal in the Rotterdam region. Available upon request.
  76. There are no reliable estimates on global fibre-to-fibre recycling capacity. This Project’s Recyclers Database, a non-exhaustive overview of recyclers, estimates current recycling capacity at 434,000 tonnes per year.
  77. Recycling capacity estimates from Reverse Resources (2022).
  78. EigenDraads (2022). Feasibility of Rotterdam region as feedstock supplier for fibre-to-fibre recycling, available upon request.
  79. Refashion (2022). What is E.P.R? Available online here.
  80. Refashion (2022). What should I do with my unsold items? Available online here.
  81. EUR-LEX (2008). Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives (Text with EEA relevance). Available here.
  82. BOE (2022). Ley 7/2022, de 8 de abril, de residuos y suelos contaminados para una economía circular. Available online here.
  83. WRAP (2016). Textiles collection procurement guide. Available here.
  84. Gemeinschaft für textile Zukunft (2020). Available here.
  85. ECAP (2019). Guidance for Textiles collections. Available here.
  86. Ecotextile (2022). EPR delayed in the UK with no new date set. Available here.
  87. Ecotextile (2022). UK backs circular economy programm with 80m pounds. Available here.
  88. #EUcirculartalks (2021). EXPLORING EPR FOR TEXTILES: TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR EUROPE’S TEXTILE WASTE. Available here.
  89. EUR-LEX (2022). COMMUNICATION FROM THE COMMISSION TO THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, THE COUNCIL, THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL COMMITTEE AND THE COMMITTEE OF THE REGIONS EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. Available here.
  90. EuRIC (2021). Handling and Sorting Specifications – For re-use and recycling of used textiles. Available here.
  91. EcoTLC/Refashion, (2014). Caractérisation des TLC usagés entrant en centres de tri ainsi que des déchets résultant du tri. Available online here.
  92. Data on volumes collected were gathered from the following sources: JRC (Germany, the Netherlands), CBI (Poland), SCAP (United Kingdom), participating sorters (Belgium, Spain).
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Wealth in Waste: India’s Potential to Bring Textile Waste Back Into The Supply Chain

References

  1. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country%27s%20 export%20earnings
  2. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country%27s%20 export%20earning
  3. www.fibre2fashion.com. (n.d.). Fibre2Fashion. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/apparel-news
  4. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country%27s%20 export%20earnings
  5. Cotton Sector. Ministry of Textiles, GoI. Retrieved June 27, 2022, from http://www.texmin.nic.in/sites/default/files/Cotton%20Sector.pdf
  6. * Industry level recycling certifications like Global Recycled Standards (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standards (RCS) don’t consider spinning waste and other reusable materials as waste but for the purpose of this study, all the by-products of textile production and consumption have been called out as waste since its usability is also defined by the waste collection mechanism.
  7. Primary analysis
  8. Kaya Dory. Why fast fashion needs to slow down. UNEP. (27 JUN 2018). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://www.unep.org/news-andstories/blogpost/why-fast-fashion-needs-slow-down
  9. Refer to illustration 30 on page 53 for the waste hierarchy
  10. The hierarchy has not been defined based on monetary value of the waste as significant variation in the same was observed in different locations and levels of the value chain.
  11. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country’s%20 export%20earnings
  12. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country’s%20 export%20earnings
  13. ibid
  14. Cotton Sector. Ministry of Textiles, GoI. Retrieved June 27, 2022, from http://www.texmin.nic.in/sites/default/files/Cotton%20Sector. pdf
  15. R. GURUPRASAD and S. K. CHATTOPADHYAY. Indian Cotton and the Needs of Spinning Industry. Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (8 March 2014). Retrieved in June 2022, from https://www.cicr.org.in/isci/5-2/Paper_2.pd
  16. Textile Industry & Market Growth in India. IBEF. Retrieved June, 2022 from https://www.ibef.org/industry/textiles
  17. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country’s%20 export%20earnings
  18. Textile Industry in India – Garment & Apparels Market in India. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.investindia.gov. in/sector/textiles-apparel#:~:text=The%20domestic%20apparel%20%26%20textile%20industry,of%20the%20country’s%20 export%20earnings
  19. State of Fashion 2022: An uneven recovery and new frontiers. McKinsey & Company (December 1, 2021). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion
  20. Shah, P. Circular fashion: Rethinking the way forward for India’s fashion industry. WRI INDIA ((2019, December 5).. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://wri-india.org/blog/circular-fashion-rethinking-way-forward-india%E2%80%99s-fashion-industry
  21. Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz. Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula. McKinsey Sustainability (October 20, 2016). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from
  22. https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula
  23. N Bairagi. Recycling of textiles in India – open access journals. (n.d.). Journal of Textile Science & Engineering. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.hilarispublisher.com/open-access/recycling-of-textiles-in-india-2165-8064.S2-003.pdf
  24. The story of Asia’s biggest textile recycling hub. Dwij (Apr 8, 2021). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.dwijproducts.com/post/ the-story-of-asia-s-biggest-textile-recycling-hub
  25. Primary analysis
  26. Primary analysis
  27. Primary analysis
  28. The Indian Textile Engineering Industry. Textile News, Apparel News, Fashion News. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https:// textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/articles/textile-articles/the-indian-textile-engineering-industry/
  29. The story of Asia’s biggest textile recycling hub. Dwij (Apr 8, 2021). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.dwijproducts.com/post/ the-story-of-asia-s-biggest-textile-recycling-hub
  30. Reserve Bank of India – RBI Bulletin. (n.d.). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://rbi.org.in/scripts/BS_ViewBulletin.aspx/
  31. EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. European Commission. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://ec.europa.eu/ environment/strategy/textiles-strategy_en
  32. Textile EPR: Recycling laws for fashion e-commerce across Europe. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://ecommercegermany.com/ blog/textile-epr-recycling-laws-for-fashion-e-commerce-across-europe
  33. Primary analysis
  34. How is a circular economy different from a linear economy? Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://kenniskaarten.hetgroenebrein.nl/en/ knowledge-map-circular-economy/how-is-a-circular-economy-different-from-a-linear-economy/
  35. BBC. (n.d.). Why clothes are so hard to recycle. BBC Future. Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.bbc.com/future/ article/20200710-why-clothes-are-so-hard-to-recycle
  36. ibid
  37. Textile Exchange. (n.d.). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Textile-Exchange_ Preferred-Fiber-Material-Market-Report_2020.pdf
  38. A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen McArthur Foundation. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https:// ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
  39. Pulse of the fashion industry 2017. Common Objective. (2018, April 5). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.commonobjective.co/ article/pulse-of-the-fashion-industry-2017
  40. A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Ellen McArthur Foundation. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https:// ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
  41. Business Standard (February 8, 2016) Retrieved in June, 2022 from https://www.business-standard.com/article/pti-stories/open-endyarn-mills-in-tirupur-coimbatore-stop-production-116020800478_1.html
  42. Apparel Resources News Desk. Experts explain why India has all reasons to become a recycling hub. Apparel Resources (08-March-2022). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://in.apparelresources.com/business-news/sustainability/experts-explain-indiareasons-become-recycling-hub/
  43. Textile Exchange Guide to Recycled Inputs. Textile Exchange (September 22, 2021). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https:// textileexchange.org/documents/textile-exchange-guide-to-recycled-inputs/
  44. KASEZ-Working-Unit-List-2018-19.pdf – Kasez Working Unit List 2018-2019. Course Hero. (n.d.). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https:// www.coursehero.com/file/89248524/KASEZ-Working-Unit-List-2018-19pdf/
  45. Indian textile industry – an overview – free industry articles. Fibre2Fashion. Retrieved June 14, 2022, from https://www.fibre2fashion. com/industry-article/2363/indian-textile-industry-an-overview
  46. Synthetic textiles industry in India and opportunities ahead. Wazir. (16th November, 2018). Retrieved June 14, 2022, from https://wazir. in/synthetic-textiles-industry-in-india-and-opportunities-ahead
  47. Polyester. CFDA. Retrieved June 10, 2022, from https://cfda.com/resources/materials/detail/polyester
  48. Preferred Fiber & Materials – Market Report 2021. Textile Exchange. Retrieved in June, 2022 from https://textileexchange.org/wpcontent/uploads/2021/08/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report_2021.pdf
  49. James Pruden. Preference for polyester may make fast fashion brands vulnerable. The Robin Report (November 27, 2017). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.therobinreport.com/preference-for-polyester-may-make-fast-fashion-brands-vulnerable/
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  51. Primary interviews
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  53. The story of Asia’s biggest textile recycling hub. Dwij Products (Apr 8, 2021). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://www.dwijproducts. com/post/the-story-of-asia-s-biggest-textile-recycling-hub
  54. Sattva primary research analysis
  55. Trade and Transport Facilitation Monitoring Mechanism in Bangladesh: Baseline Study. ADB (June 2017). Retrieved June 14, 2022, from https://www.adb.org/publications/ttfmm-baseline-study-bangladesh
  56. Special economic zones in India. Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Department of Commerce. Retrieved July 19, 2022, from http://www.sezindia.nic.in/
  57. Anna Granskog, Libbi Lee, Karl-Hendrik Magnus, and Corinne Sawers. Survey: Consumer sentiment on Sustainability In Fashion. McKinsey (17 July, 2020). Retrieved June 14, 2022, from https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/survey-consumersentiment-on-sustainability-in-fashion
  58. Primary Analysis
  59. Volume and consumption: How much does the world buy?. Common Objective. (May 14, 2018). Retrieved June 14, 2022, from https://www.commonobjective.co/article/volume-and-consumption-how-much-does-the-world-buy
  60. SZW primary research in these markets
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  62. Scaling textile recycling in Europe–turning waste into value. McKinsey (July 15, 2022 ). Retrieved July 19, 2022, from https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/scaling-textile-recycling-in-europe-turning-waste-into-value
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  64. TextileGenesis Competitors’ Key Highlights. Textile Genesis. Retrieved June, 2022 from https://www.owler.com/company/textilegenesis/competitors
  65. Annual Report 2020-21 – Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change. Retrieved June 16, 2022, from https://moef.gov.in/wpcontent/uploads/2021/03/Environment-AR-English-2020-21.pdf
  66. Adrian Wilson. Learnings from France on textile waste and EPR. Innovation in Textiles – Technical Textiles & Smart Textiles. Retrieved June 16, 2022, from https://www.innovationintextiles.com/learnings-from-france-on-textile-waste-and-epr/
  67. EPR Policy: France’s National Programme for Textiles Recovery. Knowledge Hub. (2 September, 2021). Retrieved June 8, 2022, from https://knowledge-hub.circle-lab.com/article/8959?n=EPR-Policy-France%27s-National-Programme-for-Textiles-Recovery
  68. Pranay Latkar. Waste management in spinning. Textile Sphere- Weaving Contemporary Ideologies. Retrieved June 15, 2022, from https://www.textilesphere.com/2019/09/waste-management-in-spinning.html
  69. Cotton Comber Noil. GP Group India. Retrieved June 15, 2022, from https://www.gpgroupindia.com/cotton-comber-noil.html
  70. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Retrieved from https://textileexchange.org/glossary-abbreviations/
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  73. Hanna Ljungkvist, David Watson, Maria Elander. Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. ISBN: : 978-91-88695-73-4. Retrieved June, 2022 from http://mistrafuturefashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/MistraFuture-Fashion-2018.04-M-Elander-D.3.3.4.1.pdf
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  76. Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Fibersort (2018). Retrieved June, 2022 from
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  78. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Retrieved from https://textileexchange.org/glossary-abbreviations/
  79. WASTE TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS. Henry Day. Retrieved June, 2022 from https://www.henryday.co.uk/documents/WasteTextile-Terms-and-Definitions.pdf
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  82. Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Fibersort (2018). Retrieved June, 2022 from https://www.nweurope.eu/media/3453/fibersort_ manual-sort-pct_jan2018.pdf
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Sorting for Circularity India: Wealth in Waste

References

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The Textile Tracer Assessment

References

  1. https://www.gsmarena.com/glossary.php3?term=nfc
  2. https://www.genome.gov/genetics-glossary/Polymerase-Chain-Reaction
  3. https://www.techtarget.com/whatis/definition/QR-code-quick-response-code#:~:text=A%20 QR%20code%20(quick%20response,on%20a%20smartphone%20or%20tablet
  4. https://supplychainbeyond.com/chain-of-custody-in-the-supply-chain/
  5. https://www.oracle.com/uk/erp/what-is-erp/#:~:text=Enterprise%20resource%20planning%20 (ERP)%20refers,compliance%2C%20and%20supply%20chain%20operations
  6. https://textiletutorials.com/important-difference-between-mixing-and-blending-in- spinning/#:~:text=When%20same%20kind%20but%20different,mixture%20is%20known%20s%20 blending
  7. https://www.ru.nl/systemschemistry/equipment/optical-spectroscopy/ infrared/#:~:text=Infrared%20spectroscopy%20(IR%20spectroscopy)%20is,mostly%20based%20 on%20absorption%20spectroscopy.
  8. https://oritain.com/how-it-works/the-science/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkZEiwAUHQCmaj1Bdg9g6k8I yTz2Agwd0XJPfXCxLuAbMFSEpHVjVfHApSDsOWE0BoC1C4QAvD_BwE
  9. https://textileexchange.org/tetrackit/
  10. https://www.oracle.com/scm/product-lifecycle-management/what-is-plm/
  11. https://ecochain.com/knowledge/life-cycle-assessment-lca-guide/
  12. https://textileexchange.org/tetrackit/
  13. https://textileexchange.org/tetrackit/
  14. Such as corporate due diligence legislation and regulations such as The Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act and the proposed European Union Ecodesign For Sustainable Products.
  15. https://textileexchange.org/tetrackit/ These traceability programmes are work in progress
  16. Not only fashion-focused: Sll forensic tracer companies interviewed also worked in other industries beyond fashion and textiles (agri-food, minerals etc).
  17. Mostly fashion-focused: the majority of the additive tracer companies interviewed worked only in the fashion and textiles sector at the time of research.
  18. It should be well noted that ADNAS also have the capability to provide isotopic and DNA analysis of fibres and materials, alongside their artificial DNA additive tracer.
  19. See Trustrace’s traceability playbook for further insight into digital traceability approaches, solutions, and innovations: https://trustrace.com/traceability-playbook?utm_source=ppc&utm_ medium=linkedinads&utm_campaign=sponsoredpost
  20. That said, this is a very underdeveloped capability for forensic tracers whose main focus remains for proving geographic origin of plant and animal fibres.
  21. It should be well noted that forensic tracer companies can have the capability to carry out more than one type of micro-particle analysis e.g. Oritain, SourceCertain International can perform analysis on both ratios of stable isotopes and analysis of trace meddles (see glossary).
  22. This form of offsite micro-particle analysis should not be confused with a similar process for forensic tracers. This refers to detection analysis of synthetic/artificial DNA additive tracers, added to fibres, materials, and/or garments and detected later in the supply chain. Not analysis of natural bio-chemical properties of the fibres, materials, and/or garments (Isotope ratios, elemental meddles, natural DNA) that is taken out by forensic tracers.
  23. To understand the specific capabilities of detecting the mixing and blending of fibres (and/or fibre quantification), the user should explore further directly with the additive tracer technology of interest. Fibre quantification is a much desired use case for physical verification of sustainable fibre types within a mix/blend, but still in the research and development stage for many additive tracer technologies.
  24. E.g. Supima cotton: https://www.innovationintextiles.com/oritain-maps-supima-cotton-origin/, and CertainT® cotton https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/compliance/applied-dna-services-cotton- traceability-xinjiang-uyghur-forced-labor-isotech-348286/
  25. It is important to note that provenance databases (records of the biochemical properties of natural fibres needed for verification cross-checking) need to be constantly updated by the forensic tracer company to account for changing isotopic ratios and elemental meddles at the origin for the natural fibres in scope of verification.
  26. This tracer efficacy depends on where the additive tracer is applied, and where the user wishes to detect it. As a reminder, Fashion for Good did not test the efficacy of tracers sustaining through manufacturing processes (or any similar tests).
  27. Independent party verification is still needed for cross referencing additive tracer substances and their unique composition signatories, to ensure “lock and key” detection mechanisms are verified externally. Critically speaking, relying on the tracer company itself to verify “lock and key” detection mechanism and tracer substance composition signatures can be questioned if not validated by an independent party.
  28. Haelixa’s tracer technology took part in Fashion for Good’s Organic Cotton Traceability Pilot.
  29. Tailorlux’s tracer technology took part in Fashion for Good’s Organic Cotton Traceability Pilot.
  30. IN-Code’s tracer technology took part in Fashion for Good’s Organic Cotton Traceability Pilot.