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Sorting For Circularity Europe: An Evaluation And Commercial Assessment Of Textile Waste Across Europe

References

  1. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  2. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Available online here.
  3. Ecologic (2021). Extended Producer Responsibility and Eco Modulation of Fees/ Available online here.
  4. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL)(2018). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. ISBN: : 978-91-88695-73-4. Available online here.
  5. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  6. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  7. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  8. Textile Exchange (n.d.). Glossary. Available online here.
  9. Henry Day (n.d.). WASTE TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS. Available online here.
  10. IMPEL (2017). Refuse-derived fuel. Available online here.
  11. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here. Definition adapted based on BS 8001:2017 – ‘Framework for implementing the principles of the circular economy in organisations – Guide’, based on Section 2.59 Reuse/reused.
  12. Global Fashion Agenda, 2019. 2020 Commitment. Available online here.
  13. Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2019. Make Fashion Circular launches the Jeans Redesign. Available online here.
  14. Wrap (2022). Textiles 2030. Available online here.
  15. Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective. Available here.
  16. EUR-LEX (2022). COMMUNICATION FROM THE COMMISSION TO THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, THE COUNCIL, THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL COMMITTEE AND THE COMMITTEE OF THE REGIONS EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. Available here.
  17. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  18. PlanMiljø update using the same method as described in JRC (2021). Figure representing apparent consumption per capita for EU-27.
  19. JRC (2021). Circular economy perspectives in the EU textile sector – Final report. Available here. EU-27 apparent consumption in 2019, excludes the UK.
  20. JRC (2021). EU-27 2020. Excludes the UK.
  21. JRC (2021). EU-27 2020. Excludes the UK.
  22. Modare (2021). Análisis de la ropa usada en España. Available here.
  23. JRC (2021).
  24. JRC (2021). In line with Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective (40-89% European average, 64% North-West Europe average).
  25. Fibersort (2020) RECYCLED POST-CONSUMER TEXTILES: an industry perspective. Available here.
  26. EUR-lex (2008). Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives. Available here.
  27. Calculation derived from current per capita collection figures in both Spain and Germany and taking into account expected increase of 220 grams per capita/year, as estimated in JRC (2021) from 2025 onwards. Germany could go from 15.3 kg/capita in 2018 to 17.94 kg/capita in 2030, considering a linear progression of 220 grams per capita/year in a slightly more conservative approach than the German Federal Association for Secondary Raw Materials and Waste Management (bvse e.V.) that proposes 300 grams per capita/year, albeit very much in line with it. Spain could go from 2.3 kg/capita in 2019 to 4.72 kg/capita in 2030, considering a linear progression of 220 grams/year.
  28. Harmsen, PFH. Improving Dutch post-consumer textile recycling. WUR. Available online here.
  29. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. Available online here.
  30. Fibersort (2018). Manual sort of post-consumer textiles. Available online here.
  31. EcoTLC/Refashion, (2014). Caractérisation des TLC usagés entrant en centres de tri ainsi que des déchets résultant du tri. Available online here.
  32. Circle Economy (2020). Clothing labels: Accurate or not?. Available online here
  33. Further details on scope and categorisation can be found in Annex I – Methodology for sorting analysis.
  34. EcoTLC (2021). Annual Report. Available online here. Includes self-deposit containers in public area, private and private access.
  35. GftZ estimate. In JRC (2021).
  36. WRAP (2020) Textiles Market Situation Report 2019. Available online here.
  37. WRAP (2016). Bring recycle guide. Available online here.
  38. EcoTLC 2019. Annual Report 2018. Available online here.
  39. In JRC (2021). Estimations made by EuRiC for JRC 2020. Netherlands data comes from FFACT (2020), complemented with data from sorters participating in this Project.
  40. Collected volumes in Germany from German Environment Agency (2022). Evaluation of the collection and recovery of selected waste streams for the further development of the circular economy. Available here.
  41. FFACT (2020). Massabalans textiel 2018. Available here. This information was complemented by input from participating sorters in the Project.
  42. Input from participating sorters in the Project.
  43. Calculated based on input from participating sorters in the Project.
  44. Calculated based on input from participating sorters in the Project.
  45. JRC (2021).
  46. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  47. JRC (2021).
  48. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  49. UN Comtrade (2021). EU-28 2020 data for HS 6309 Used textiles and worn clothing. Available here.
  50. JRC (2021).
  51. Ljungkvist, H. (IVL), Watson, D. (PlanMiljø) and Elander, M. (IVL). Developments in global markets for used textiles and implications for reuse and recycling. Available online here.
  52. Data shared by textile sorters.
  53. This weight is based on average weights per product type. The actual volume scanned is 21.800 kilos, hence there is a 6% difference between actual volume scanned and estimated weight used in data analysis.
  54. JRC (2021). Apparent consumption figures.
  55. Data shared by participating sorters.
  56. Based on the fibre occurrence found in the sample used in this Project.
  57. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  58. Wang, L.; Huang, S.; Wang, Y (2022). Recycling of Waste Cotton Textile Containing Elastane Fibers through Dissolution and Regeneration. Membranes, 12, 355. Available online here.
  59. Textile Exchange (2021). Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report. Available online here.
  60. PCI Wood Mackenzie (2016). In: UN Environment Programme (2020). Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain – Global Stocktaking. Nairobi, Kenya.
  61. Average garment use based on: Sustainability (2020). Clothing lifespans: what should be measured and how. Available here.
  62. Estimate share of polyester in world fibre production in 2017 based on Textile Exchange Preferred Fibers and Materials Report (2018). Available here.
  63. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  64. Items containing sequin and lurex threats were classified as containing “metal disruptors”. These disruptors are not removable. Therefore the share of non-removable textiles is in reality slightly higher than the 49% represented here.
  65. Mechanical recyclers mostly process knitted fabric structures. This study did not capture data on fabric structures. Based on product categories, 14% of the feedstock for mechanical recycling most likely consists of textiles with woven fabric structures.
  66. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  67. The colour pink was omitted in the research and traced as ‘red’.
  68. McKinsey (2022). Scaling textile recycling in Europe—turning waste into value. Available online here.
  69. Due to the limited ability of NIR-scanners to detect elastane, a large share of the volume classified as pure cotton in this Project most likely contains elastane.
  70. Based on this Project’s sample analysis.
  71. JRC (2021).
  72. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  73. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  74. Based on data obtained from textile sorters.
  75. EigenDraads (2022). Business case for automated sorting and hardware removal in the Rotterdam region. Available upon request.
  76. There are no reliable estimates on global fibre-to-fibre recycling capacity. This Project’s Recyclers Database, a non-exhaustive overview of recyclers, estimates current recycling capacity at 434,000 tonnes per year.
  77. Recycling capacity estimates from Reverse Resources (2022).
  78. EigenDraads (2022). Feasibility of Rotterdam region as feedstock supplier for fibre-to-fibre recycling, available upon request.
  79. Refashion (2022). What is E.P.R? Available online here.
  80. Refashion (2022). What should I do with my unsold items? Available online here.
  81. EUR-LEX (2008). Directive 2008/98/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 November 2008 on waste and repealing certain Directives (Text with EEA relevance). Available here.
  82. BOE (2022). Ley 7/2022, de 8 de abril, de residuos y suelos contaminados para una economía circular. Available online here.
  83. WRAP (2016). Textiles collection procurement guide. Available here.
  84. Gemeinschaft für textile Zukunft (2020). Available here.
  85. ECAP (2019). Guidance for Textiles collections. Available here.
  86. Ecotextile (2022). EPR delayed in the UK with no new date set. Available here.
  87. Ecotextile (2022). UK backs circular economy programm with 80m pounds. Available here.
  88. #EUcirculartalks (2021). EXPLORING EPR FOR TEXTILES: TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR EUROPE’S TEXTILE WASTE. Available here.
  89. EUR-LEX (2022). COMMUNICATION FROM THE COMMISSION TO THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, THE COUNCIL, THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL COMMITTEE AND THE COMMITTEE OF THE REGIONS EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. Available here.
  90. EuRIC (2021). Handling and Sorting Specifications – For re-use and recycling of used textiles. Available here.
  91. EcoTLC/Refashion, (2014). Caractérisation des TLC usagés entrant en centres de tri ainsi que des déchets résultant du tri. Available online here.
  92. Data on volumes collected were gathered from the following sources: JRC (Germany, the Netherlands), CBI (Poland), SCAP (United Kingdom), participating sorters (Belgium, Spain).